How to Ask for the Ultra-Flattering Marquise Layers Haircut, According to Stylists

Marquise layers are a face-framing layering technique that adds movement and volume while keeping length intact. The layers are cut in a diamond-shaped pattern around the face, wider at the cheekbones and tapering at the chin and forehead. At LAHH Salon in Bay Harbor Islands, we customize marquise layers to your face shape, hair texture, and styling routine.

What Are Marquise Layers?

The name comes from the marquise diamond cut: an elongated oval shape with pointed ends. Applied to hair, marquise layers create a similar silhouette. The shortest layers hit at the cheekbones, gradually lengthening as they move toward the jaw and below. The result is a cut that opens up the face, adds dimension, and works with almost every face shape.

Unlike traditional long layers that start 4 to 6 inches from the ends, marquise layers begin closer to the face and are concentrated around the front sections. The back stays longer with minimal layering, so you keep your length while getting all the movement in the frame of your face.

Who Does This Cut Work Best For?

Marquise layers work on most face shapes, but the way we cut them changes based on your bone structure:

• Round faces: We start the shortest layers slightly below the cheekbone to elongate the face rather than widen it
• Oval faces: The most versatile shape. Layers can start right at the cheekbone for maximum movement
• Square faces: Softer, more textured layers around the jaw to balance strong angles
• Heart-shaped faces: Layers that hit at the chin to add width at the narrowest point
• Long faces: Wider layers at the cheekbones to create the illusion of width and break up vertical length

Hair texture matters too. Straight and wavy hair (types 1A to 2B) shows marquise layers most dramatically. Curly hair (3A and above) benefits from the technique but requires a stylist who understands how curl shrinkage affects where the layers land when dry.

How to Ask Your Stylist for Marquise Layers

Walk into your appointment with a clear reference photo showing the finished style, not just the concept. Then tell your stylist:

1. "I want face-framing layers that start at my cheekbones and taper down"
2. "I want to keep my overall length but add movement around my face"
3. "I want the layers to blend, not look choppy or disconnected"

A few things to avoid saying: "just add some layers" (too vague), "I want layers everywhere" (that is a different cut), or "make it look like a curtain bang" (curtain bangs and marquise layers are different techniques that can be combined but are not the same thing).

"The key to marquise layers is precision in the front sections," says Emily Safran-Wands, owner of LAHH Salon. "We cut these dry, one section at a time, checking the fall and movement as we go. It is not a cut you rush through."

Marquise Layers vs. Other Layering Techniques

• Marquise layers vs. curtain bangs: Curtain bangs are a standalone fringe piece that parts in the center. Marquise layers are full face-framing layers that start longer (cheekbone) and blend into the length. You can combine both.
• Marquise layers vs. butterfly cut: The butterfly cut creates two distinct lengths (a shorter "top layer" and a longer bottom). Marquise layers are more blended with gradual transitions.
• Marquise layers vs. traditional layers: Traditional layers are distributed evenly throughout the hair. Marquise layers concentrate movement around the face while keeping the back relatively one-length.

How to Style Marquise Layers at Home

The beauty of this cut is that it looks good with minimal effort. Three ways to style it:

Blow-dry with a round brush

Wrap the face-framing sections around a medium round brush and direct them away from the face. Finish with a cool shot to set. This gives the classic bouncy, face-framing effect. Takes about 10 minutes on the front sections.

Air dry with product

Apply a lightweight mousse or cream to damp hair, scrunch the face-framing layers, and let them dry naturally. The layers will separate and create soft movement without heat. Works best on wavy hair (2A to 2C).

Flat iron for a sleek look

One pass per section with a flat iron, curving the face-framing layers slightly outward at the ends. Finish with Davines OI Oil for shine. The layers add subtle dimension even when styled completely straight.

Maintenance: How Often to Trim

Marquise layers need a trim every 8 to 10 weeks to maintain the shape. The face-framing sections grow out faster than back layers, so without regular maintenance the cut loses its diamond-shaped silhouette. Between trims, a texturizing spray helps maintain separation and movement.

Book Your Cut at LAHH Salon

Precision cuts at LAHH Salon start at $65. Marquise layers are a technique, not an add-on, so the price is based on your standard cut rate. Not sure if this trend will work for you? Read this first.

Book your appointment | Call (305) 877-7706